At the very base of the point take a slightly deeper stitch. Work this stitch in two stages. Return the needle into the background, slanting the needle well under the edge. Put your left thumb over the stitch to prevent puckering as you pull the thread through tightly. This slightly bigger stitch will disappear into the fabric and firmly secure the base of the point. Start stitching up the second side of the point. Work the first 2 or 3 stitches in two stages so you do not pluck out the miniscule seam allowance and then you will be safe to continue stitching as normal.
Needle-turn along to the point, stopping just before the marked line. Make sure the stitching as you approach the corner is small for extra security. Hold the work firmly in your left hand over your first two fingers and then between your third and fourth fingers to give a bit of tension on the background fabric in the area of the point.
The needle will now be pushed firmly against the first line of stitching. Carefully remove the needle and pull gently on the thread to re-align the point which may have loosened in the turning process. Work a small stitch at the point. An alternative method for turning points is to use the flat end of the turning stick. Using such a stick makes it much easier to turn a corner. Push the stick down inside the point a few times to smooth out any turnings, which may have got bunched up.
Re-align the point and work a small stitch at the point. Acute outer point For more acute outer points it is necessary to turn the point in 2 stages. Turn once to give a straight top Fig 28 and then turn the seam allowance again to complete a sharp point. Also, I strictly use cotton thread aurifil for applique. Happy stitching at the beach! If exposed to very cold temperatures it will reappear. If exposed to heat, is turns again light. I have found a number of sites on the internet that show the reactions on fabric, and students are advised if notebooks with Frixion ink in them are left in a hot car, the ink will appear to have disappeared, but once placed in the freezer for a while, the notes reappear.
I extensively tested Frixion years ago, using heat then the freezer. What I learned is after heat then freezing and the reappearance, once lightly washed in my mild quilt soap, the ink totally washed out and nothing reappeared when put in the freezer again.
This was tested on Moda cotton fabric. I would encourage others to test a swatch prior to using. Hope this helps. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Carolyn Friedlander creates quilt and sewing patterns for the modern maker.
Sign up for my weekly-ish newsletter to stay updated on the newest projects, posts, products and other good stuff. Comments Hi, Carolyn: Your blog and designs are awesome! Congratulations on your continuing success! Thank you for the opportunity to comment. You can tell that I am not opinionated at all! Any advice on irons? I need a new one but do not know what to get? Thanks for a wonderful post. I know I will refer back to the tutorial often as I progress.
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Next, To anchor the applique shapes to the background, I use one of my favorite things to ever come into the quilting world….
For years before this glue was available, I would always stick myself with the pins used to hold my applique shapes in place. Not anymore! Next up is the needle.
I like to use John James Golden Glide applique needles in size 9. You can experiment and choose the size that fits you. This needle glides nicely through fabric, including batiks!
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